Week 17 : 15 June to 21 June 2012 -- Darwin

Since returning from Kakadu last Monday it’s been situation normal with Vic working and me doing the home duties and getting rid of the Kakadu dust by cleaning the car. Neil and Jan returned from Kakadu on Thursday and went straight to Mindil Beach Markets, where we met them for dinner.

Another perfect way to end a busy work day at Mindil Markets

The Hidden Valley round of the V8 Supercars was run over the weekend and as part of the lead up, there was a street parade for the race car carriers, held on Thursday. Probably due to the close proximity of the race track to the city, this is the only round that holds such a thing. I decided to go and have a look, so, found myself a good spot under a tree along the main road back to the track, and waited. The sight (and sound) of the convoy of trucks trundling along the road got my old rev-head juices flowing again.

Vodaphone Team Commodore

Team Red Holden Racing Team

Jack Daniels Kelly Racing - Kelly brothers

Mack from Cars 2 Promotional Truck 

Back in our youth, Neil and I used to go to the old Surfer’s Paradise Raceway and watch the Touring Cars ( as they were back then). The last time he and I went, Dick Johnson was racing a Holden Torana, and we were both single (last century!). With Vic working Friday, and Jan probably quite happy to spend a day alone, Neil and I decided to go and watch the practice sessions.

Not one but three classic GTHO Falcons in the one shot!!

Steve Mason's '66 Shelby Mustang

Jim Richards in a 1972 AMC Javelin

John Bowe's '69 Trans Am Mustang

from the front

It was a real hoot to hang around the track, smell the fumes, feel the thunder, and there is no doubt the V8’s of the 21st century are absolute weapons, but for me, there is nothing like the Touring Car Masters. The sound of these classic race cars doing the rounds is unforgettable. There are   some magnificent cars in the series… John Bowe’s ’69 Trans Am Mustang, Jim Richards ’72 AMC Javelin, Andrew Miedecke’s ’69 Camaro plus a heap of other Mustangs, Toranas, Monaros, GT Falcons and a whole bunch of other classics. By the time we picked Vic up at work, Neil and I were a couple of very tired ol’ petrol-heads.  

Neil enjoying the racing

Saturday morning we all headed over to the Parap Markets and had a good look around as well as a damn good cup of coffee. Even though we usually just stroll around here when we go, I really like the atmosphere, and enjoy watching the people go about their business. 

The beautiful colours of Parap Markets

One of several flower stalls

One of the many street frontages at Parap markets

Neil and Jan returned the whiz-bang on Sunday morning and after picking them up, the four of us drove down to Berry Springs (via Howard Springs) for a swim and picnic lunch. It was a beautiful day again and the water temp was just perfect for a lazy swim and float around on the noodles. Unfortunately, Jan lost her camera during the day and consequently, all her photos from their week at Kakadu (hopefully she’ll like some of mine and we can share).

Howard Springs resident

Howard Springs

Neil and Jan got a lift to the city when I took Vic in on Monday, and spent the morning playing tourist. I came back into the city in the afternoon and the three of us took a drive over to the Botanical Gardens were we had a walk around. I have to say, we were disappointed. There are certainly some magnificent trees that have obviously done well to survive the tropical cyclones, that Darwin is famous for, but the general condition of the place is very ordinary.

Monday night was our last night together, so we had a quiet bar-b-q at home and settled in to watch the grand final of ‘The Voice’ ( Well it had to be done!!).

Neil and Jan were on the red eye Tuesday morning so I dropped them at the airport at 4.45am and we said our goodbyes. It was an exciting couple of weeks for Vic and I, with Paul Swenson visiting and then Jan and Neil spending time with us as well, so we’ll be right now until August when we head home.

There has been a change of plan on that front too. When we set out on this odyssey, we always planned to fly home for Christmas, and then with the news of the impending baby, another flight home was on the cards. We’ve now decided to drive home and hang around south east Queensland until the new year and then head down the coast, visiting the southern parts of New South Wales, then into Victoria, across to South Australia before heading up the middle of the country and picking up this trip in Katherine in a years time. This will allow us to visit Alice Springs, Uluru, and other places we’d been wanting to see, but hadn’t planned in this circuit around Oz. In the meantime, while we’re back home, we’ll do some other trips around, including three weeks in Tasmania that Vic has already booked for the end of October into November. She already has eight days accommodation booked in Hobart and a four day housesit in northern Tasmania organized.  

The time back in Queensland will allow us to reorganize our storage, off load some stuff from the caravan that we’re, clearly, not going to use, catch up with friends and relatives and maybe look at our long term future. Two things we’ve definitely realized since leaving home is that we, eventually, want to live within a few hours drive of Brisbane and that we certainly don’t want to cut this journey short.

So, Vic’s working until July 18^th, we leave Darwin on the 20^th and commence our return trip. Our planned route home will have us retracing some roads (unavoidable), but mostly, we will be travelling a different course. As much as we’ve enjoyed Darwin, we are both really looking forward to being back on the road.

Until next week… happy travels.    

Dripstone Cliff beach - 2klms bike ride from our house sit

Week 16 : 8 June to 14 June -- Kakadu Part B

Sunday morning we headed out and the first stop was the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre, the second of the park’s visitor centres, where we learnt about the Aboriginal culture and the connection the Bininj and Mungguy people have with their families and their land. The design of this building represents the Warradjan, a pig-nosed turtle.

Six seasonal calendar for the Kakadu region in Gun-djeihmi language

From here we had a quick look around Gagudju Lodge at Cooinda before continuing on to Nourlangie Rock.

Anbangbang shelter

Anbangbang Gallery

At Nourlangie, you can see how Aboriginal people lived in the area through changing times. Environmental and social changes are reflected in the rock art and in the ground, where archaeologists have unearthed over 20,000 years of occupation. The upper parts of the rock are known as Burrunggui (pronounced Boor-oon-goy), and the lower parts are Anbangbang (Arn-barng-barng). There is a 1.5 km circuit walk that takes you through the various rock art galleries and the Anbangbang Shelter, a wet season home for the Aboriginal people. Discarded objects have built up on the floor and prove that this shelter has been used for over 6,000 years.

On the short walk you come to Gunwarde-warde (don’t ask me!!) Lookout, from where you have a view across to the Arnhem Land Escarpment where (legend says) Namarrgon, the Lightning Man, watches for the first wet season storms.

Lightning dreaming where Namarrgon watches for the first wet season storms

Also from this lookout, you can take the Baark sandstone bushwalk, which takes you 12klms all the way around Nourlangie. Though not as prepared as we could have been, Neil and I decided to hike part of the walk, while the girls returned to the cars.

Us at Gunwarde-warde lookout

The distance we decided to walk wasn’t all that far, but it was a very steep climb to the top of Burrunggui (see above). As we took the steep section, we crossed a wet season creek in the small monsoon forest, climbed around the waterfall (wet season also), before passing through pockets of sandstone pandanus. At the top, the view across the woodland below was just magnificent.

Neil and I walked a little further on across the plateau before returning back the way we came. By the time we got back to the car park, the girls were beginning to worry… neither Neil or I wear a watch! We had apparently been gone close to two hours. Sorry Dear!

On top of the world

Nothing like an open fire in the middle of Kakadu

When we arrived back at camp, we had early showers and a couple of cold drinks before a bar-b-q dinner, and then spent the time before bed enjoying an open fire. I haven’t mentioned the mozzies… Kakadu breeds them big, aggressive and in numbers! Jan came up with the idea of surrounding our camp in a ring of mosquito coils. This worked a treat, but when you need to do this morning and night, you tend to go through a few coils. Beats scratching later though!

Yellow water at daybreak

As the sun starts to rise

At dawn on Monday, we gathered with the other tourists at Cooinda, and then were taken by bus to Yellow Water. Here, we boarded the boats, which were to take us on our early morning cruise over the Yellow Water wetlands. We were given the mandatory safety demonstration, you know the one, about lifejackets, emergency exits (don’t think I’ll be going overboard in these waters!!), toilets, etc and in particular we were told to keep our arms in, because crocodiles can jump. The morning was crystal clear and cool, and as the sun rose over the lagoon, we headed out and observed this part of the East Alligator River, come alive.

Sleeping croc at daybreak

Our Skipper was a knowledgeable bloke with a good sense of humour, which made for an enjoyable couple of hours. The birdlife at Yellow Water is prolific, to say the least. 

In the still of the early morning 

And another day breaks

Forrest Kingfisher

Australian Darter

We saw Brolgas, Plumed Whistling Ducks, Australian Darter, Forest Kingfishers, Egrets (Small, Great and Intermediate), White Bellied Sea Eagles, Burdekin Duck, Ibis, Comb Crested Jacana, Pelicans and Royal Spoonbills, Magpie Geese, plus others I forget… but no Jabiru! We saw three Crocodiles, one of which was stalking a baby Comb Crested Jacana (or Jesus Bird, because of their ability to walk on water). Mumma Jacana was trying to distract the croc in order to save it’s baby.

Jesus bird distracting the croc away from her baby (out of picture)

Any reference to Kakadu, where tourism is concerned, says a cruise of Yellow Water is a must… I couldn’t agree more, so put it on your agenda when you come here.

Kakadu reflections

Our cruise fee included a buffet breakfast, which was served at Gagadju Lodge when we returned to Cooinda. Once we had a belly full, we returned to our campsite and packed up. Neil and Jan made their own way to Jabiru and when we caught up with them at the lake, we said our goodbyes and left them to continue their trip around Kakadu.

The Cathedral Anthill

Us enjoying the day

Vic and I headed for Darwin and on the way out had a late lunch at the Bark Hut Inn. On the way home we made another stop, this time at the ‘Window on the Wetlands’ Visitor Centre, where interactive displays give you an insight into the ecological processes that occur in the wetlands, seasonal changes and the problems created by feral animals and weeds. From the top floor of the building, there is a great view across the lower Adelaide River floodplain. A visit here is really worthwhile, and the free entry is a bonus.

Lower Adelaide River floodplain

Window on the Wetlands Visitor Centre

Three kilometres down the road is the turnoff to the Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve, and even though it was getting late, we decided to have a quick look, while we were close by. The reserve is a haven for birdlife and is part of the Adelaide River catchment. The dam was built in the mid 50’s to provide irrigation for the failed Humpty Doo Rice Project. (That in itself is an interesting story, for another day!) By the time the project failed, the wetlands had become a dry season refuge for wildlife, especially waterbirds. It was declared a Bird Protection District in 1959. Our visit was short due to the fact that a rogue croc is still in the area and you are advised not to leave your vehicle.

Another croc trap in Fogg Dam

Croc trap in Fogg Dam

Fogg dam wall drive

 

We arrived home after dark. Over the weekend we travelled 1,015 klms and had a fantastic time taking over 700 photos. Travelling with seasoned Kakadu visitors (Neil & Jan), allowed us to squeeze a lot into a four-day weekend. I know there is still a lot to see in Kakadu, and maybe we’ll get back there some other time, but for now I’m satisfied. It is an incredible place and thoroughly deserving of as much time as you can give it. Don’t be mislead by those who say it should be ‘Kakadon’t’… go there and form your own opinion.

When I collected Flash the ‘Wonder Dog’ on Tuesday morning, she greeted me like a long lost friend… her family is in for a hell of a reception when they get home!!

Until next week… happy travels.   Boh-boh (goodbye). 

Week 16 : 8 June to 14 June -- Kakadu Part A

With the Queen’s Birthday long weekend coming up, Vic took Friday off, and we headed out to Kakadu National Park for the four days. Our good friends, Neil and Jan, who arrived on Wednesday, accompanied us. They had hired a camper van (better known in caravan circles as a ‘Slammer’ or a ‘Whiz Bang’) and were staying around Kakadu for a week or so. I’d decided (much to Vic’s disgust!) to leave the van at home and use the tent this weekend.

We dropped Flash at the Pet Resort on the way out, and just down the road from there, turned onto the Arnhem Highway. About 96 klms up the road, we stopped at the Mary River Park and purchased our Kakadu Park Pass ($25 / person gives access to the park for 14 days) before stopping again, just up the road, at the Bark Hut Inn, where we had morning tea. There’s a nice caravan park behind the pub and I reckon it’d be a top spot to stay a night and have a couple of cold drinks, at the bar, with the locals.

 

About 170 klms from Darwin, we entered the Kakadu National Park, and I was excited to, finally, be ticking this box on my bucket list. 

When visiting Kakadu, the Aboriginal traditional owners encourage you, to take the time to look, listen and feel the country, and to experience the true essence of the land.

Merl campground

At 261 klms we took the turn toward Ubirr 

(pronounced Oo-beerr) Rock, and travelled the 36 klms to Merl Campground. We chose our spot from the many shaded and private areas available and set up camp.

Cahills Crossing 

After a bite to eat we drove the short distance to Cahills Crossing where it is possible (with a permit) to cross the East Alligator River into Arnhem Land.

This is where salt meets fresh water, and as the tide rises and falls, the crossing becomes very dangerous and has claimed quite a few vehicles in the past. 

While here, we watched a fisherman pull in a nice barramundi that was undersized. Didn’t matter to him that it had to go back though… he didn’t eat fish!

The river here, as with the entire park, is populated by crocs, and on a bush walk just downstream, we spotted a 2 – 3 metre       crocodile sunning itself on the bank.

No swimming here

East Aligator River at Cahills Crossing

Sunning crocodile on the opposite back

  

Late in the afternoon, we made our way to the Ubirr Rock car park and grabbed the camera, camcorder and water bottles.  We took the 1 km circuit that leads past some fascinating Aboriginal rock art sites, some of which are up to 20,000 years old.

Heading off to Ubirr Rock

We climbed Ubirr Rock and took our spot on Nadab Lookout, overlooking the East Alligator River wetlands. This is where Mick ‘Crocodile’ Dundee said, “This is my backyard”. From here we watched the birdlife below, as it prepared to settle for the night, and waited for the sun to set. This was probably the thing I wanted to do most while in the Northern Territory, and sitting up here with Vic, Neil and Jan, was everything I’d expected. I was in awe. Yes, the sunset was glorious, and the scenery absolutely spectacular, but I’ve seen other glorious sunsets and spectacular scenery since leaving Brisbane. But this was Ubirr… probably the most iconic landmark in the 20,000 square kilometres that make up Kakadu National Park.

Across the wetlands at Ubirr Rock

The rock formation was fabulous

With Kakadu you have to experience it to really appreciate the vast open plains, rocky outcrops and flora. Then there's the sunsets...

Our spectacular sunset from on top of Ubirr Rock

Yep even Gnome made it to Ubirr

Vic's little ray of sunshine 

As the sun fell the scenery colours were amazing

Back at camp, we paid the Ranger our camping fee ($10 each), then had a couple of cold drinks while getting dinner ready and calling it an early night. As we originally packed for this trip, I had checked the condition of all the camping gear before it went into the caravan and the airbed passed ok… but by morning here in Kakadu, it was flat! The next two nights should be fun!

Couldn't take photos here :(
but it was really interesting. 

Saturday, we woke early and broke camp before continuing our trip into Jabiru. On the way we visited the Bowali Visitor Centre, one of two visitor centres in the park. Here, you’ll learn about the geographical aspects of Kakadu, it’s plants and animals and it’s people. You’ll also learn about the steps being taken, by the Bininj and Mungguy people (traditional owners) along with Parks Australia, to protect this World Heritage area. An Aboriginal rock shelter inspired the centre’s building.

In Jabiru, we got some supplies from the supermarket, and were surprised by the reasonable prices, considering the remoteness of the town. There is a nice picnic area by the lake, so we decided to have our lunch here.

Back on the road, we headed southwest toward the campground at Mardugal, where we intended to spend the next two nights. Along the way, we crossed the billabong on Burdulba Creek, and Vic spotted a family of Jabiru (Black-Necked Stork) wading in the shallows. We pulled up and spent some time watching (and photographing) the pair and their juvenile, as they searched for a meal of fish or frogs. At the time it seemed a bit silly, standing on the bridge, watching the Jabiru, along with Brolgas, Waterfowl and Egrets, in this small wetland. In hindsight though, I’m glad we did, because these were the only Jabiru we saw all weekend.

A pair of Jabiru (the female has the yellow eye)

Down the road a little, we turned into Mardugal, and once again, picked our spot and set camp. Now, if you think Vic wasn’t happy with me about leaving the van in Darwin and having to sleep on a deflating air mattress, you’d be spot on! Neil came to the rescue though, by loaning us the folding mattress out of the whiz-bang. (and I got to sleep in the tent, not out in the open, as my fate may have been J)

Just before dark, the Ranger came around and collected our fees ($10 each again), and sat for a while to talk. He’s actually a retired Park Ranger who lives in NSW. He tendered for the position, and will come up here each season for the next five years, live on site in a caravan and look after the camping area. His wife suggested he apply for the job and stayed at home when he got it. Maybe his retirement affected her more than him!

That night, we attended a slide presentation that was held in the campground, dealing with the park’s birdlife.

............check out part B of our Kakadu trip this week in the next post.