Week 16 : 8 June to 14 June -- Kakadu Part B

Sunday morning we headed out and the first stop was the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre, the second of the park’s visitor centres, where we learnt about the Aboriginal culture and the connection the Bininj and Mungguy people have with their families and their land. The design of this building represents the Warradjan, a pig-nosed turtle.

Six seasonal calendar for the Kakadu region in Gun-djeihmi language

From here we had a quick look around Gagudju Lodge at Cooinda before continuing on to Nourlangie Rock.

Anbangbang shelter

Anbangbang Gallery

At Nourlangie, you can see how Aboriginal people lived in the area through changing times. Environmental and social changes are reflected in the rock art and in the ground, where archaeologists have unearthed over 20,000 years of occupation. The upper parts of the rock are known as Burrunggui (pronounced Boor-oon-goy), and the lower parts are Anbangbang (Arn-barng-barng). There is a 1.5 km circuit walk that takes you through the various rock art galleries and the Anbangbang Shelter, a wet season home for the Aboriginal people. Discarded objects have built up on the floor and prove that this shelter has been used for over 6,000 years.

On the short walk you come to Gunwarde-warde (don’t ask me!!) Lookout, from where you have a view across to the Arnhem Land Escarpment where (legend says) Namarrgon, the Lightning Man, watches for the first wet season storms.

Lightning dreaming where Namarrgon watches for the first wet season storms

Also from this lookout, you can take the Baark sandstone bushwalk, which takes you 12klms all the way around Nourlangie. Though not as prepared as we could have been, Neil and I decided to hike part of the walk, while the girls returned to the cars.

Us at Gunwarde-warde lookout

The distance we decided to walk wasn’t all that far, but it was a very steep climb to the top of Burrunggui (see above). As we took the steep section, we crossed a wet season creek in the small monsoon forest, climbed around the waterfall (wet season also), before passing through pockets of sandstone pandanus. At the top, the view across the woodland below was just magnificent.

Neil and I walked a little further on across the plateau before returning back the way we came. By the time we got back to the car park, the girls were beginning to worry… neither Neil or I wear a watch! We had apparently been gone close to two hours. Sorry Dear!

On top of the world

Nothing like an open fire in the middle of Kakadu

When we arrived back at camp, we had early showers and a couple of cold drinks before a bar-b-q dinner, and then spent the time before bed enjoying an open fire. I haven’t mentioned the mozzies… Kakadu breeds them big, aggressive and in numbers! Jan came up with the idea of surrounding our camp in a ring of mosquito coils. This worked a treat, but when you need to do this morning and night, you tend to go through a few coils. Beats scratching later though!

Yellow water at daybreak

As the sun starts to rise

At dawn on Monday, we gathered with the other tourists at Cooinda, and then were taken by bus to Yellow Water. Here, we boarded the boats, which were to take us on our early morning cruise over the Yellow Water wetlands. We were given the mandatory safety demonstration, you know the one, about lifejackets, emergency exits (don’t think I’ll be going overboard in these waters!!), toilets, etc and in particular we were told to keep our arms in, because crocodiles can jump. The morning was crystal clear and cool, and as the sun rose over the lagoon, we headed out and observed this part of the East Alligator River, come alive.

Sleeping croc at daybreak

Our Skipper was a knowledgeable bloke with a good sense of humour, which made for an enjoyable couple of hours. The birdlife at Yellow Water is prolific, to say the least. 

In the still of the early morning 

And another day breaks

Forrest Kingfisher

Australian Darter

We saw Brolgas, Plumed Whistling Ducks, Australian Darter, Forest Kingfishers, Egrets (Small, Great and Intermediate), White Bellied Sea Eagles, Burdekin Duck, Ibis, Comb Crested Jacana, Pelicans and Royal Spoonbills, Magpie Geese, plus others I forget… but no Jabiru! We saw three Crocodiles, one of which was stalking a baby Comb Crested Jacana (or Jesus Bird, because of their ability to walk on water). Mumma Jacana was trying to distract the croc in order to save it’s baby.

Jesus bird distracting the croc away from her baby (out of picture)

Any reference to Kakadu, where tourism is concerned, says a cruise of Yellow Water is a must… I couldn’t agree more, so put it on your agenda when you come here.

Kakadu reflections

Our cruise fee included a buffet breakfast, which was served at Gagadju Lodge when we returned to Cooinda. Once we had a belly full, we returned to our campsite and packed up. Neil and Jan made their own way to Jabiru and when we caught up with them at the lake, we said our goodbyes and left them to continue their trip around Kakadu.

The Cathedral Anthill

Us enjoying the day

Vic and I headed for Darwin and on the way out had a late lunch at the Bark Hut Inn. On the way home we made another stop, this time at the ‘Window on the Wetlands’ Visitor Centre, where interactive displays give you an insight into the ecological processes that occur in the wetlands, seasonal changes and the problems created by feral animals and weeds. From the top floor of the building, there is a great view across the lower Adelaide River floodplain. A visit here is really worthwhile, and the free entry is a bonus.

Lower Adelaide River floodplain

Window on the Wetlands Visitor Centre

Three kilometres down the road is the turnoff to the Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve, and even though it was getting late, we decided to have a quick look, while we were close by. The reserve is a haven for birdlife and is part of the Adelaide River catchment. The dam was built in the mid 50’s to provide irrigation for the failed Humpty Doo Rice Project. (That in itself is an interesting story, for another day!) By the time the project failed, the wetlands had become a dry season refuge for wildlife, especially waterbirds. It was declared a Bird Protection District in 1959. Our visit was short due to the fact that a rogue croc is still in the area and you are advised not to leave your vehicle.

Another croc trap in Fogg Dam

Croc trap in Fogg Dam

Fogg dam wall drive

 

We arrived home after dark. Over the weekend we travelled 1,015 klms and had a fantastic time taking over 700 photos. Travelling with seasoned Kakadu visitors (Neil & Jan), allowed us to squeeze a lot into a four-day weekend. I know there is still a lot to see in Kakadu, and maybe we’ll get back there some other time, but for now I’m satisfied. It is an incredible place and thoroughly deserving of as much time as you can give it. Don’t be mislead by those who say it should be ‘Kakadon’t’… go there and form your own opinion.

When I collected Flash the ‘Wonder Dog’ on Tuesday morning, she greeted me like a long lost friend… her family is in for a hell of a reception when they get home!!

Until next week… happy travels.   Boh-boh (goodbye).