Week 13 : 18 May to 24 May 2012 -- Darwin

It’s been another busy week for us both with Vic proving her worth at work and the people in the department making use of her experience. She’s enjoying being busy but also really enjoys her Saturday sleep ins.

On Friday this week it was an overcast day and a bit cooler than we’ve become used to so I headed south about 10kms and had a look at 17 ½ Mile Camp. Following the air raids of 19^th February 1942, a land attack was expected within 3 days, so many defensive decisions were made in an effort to prepare Darwin ( and indeed , Australia) for the imminent enemy landings.

Looking downhill from the dugout

This was the first line of defence and, as the name suggests, was 
17 ½ miles from Darwin. The troops were given supplies to last several weeks so they could stall the enemy while further defences were organized. They were told to hold their positions to the very end. This site was chosen due to the elevated ridges in the area which gave commanding views across to the harbour and Darwin city which would have to be taken before any move south could be made. The elevated positions also gave the defenders a good view over the Old Stuart Highway and main North – South Railway Line to Adelaide, which it was anticipated, the enemy would have to use in order to make a speedy advance.

The camp was hastily set up under the threat of invasion and it was necessary to create a water supply, drainage, build huts and command posts, mess, latrines etc. Trip wires were placed in front of camp perimeters to create fields of fire and camouflaged.

 Concealed dug out

Concealments were dug into prominent ridges and fortified with low semi-circular walls of local ‘coffee’ rock. Positions were effective because the defenders were well hidden in shallow positions on high ground.

Remnants of the Flaming Fury

Remnants of the various buildings, huts and drainage remain as do some of the latrine pits. These were dubbed, ‘Flaming Furies’ because of the cleaning method. To prevent disease, fuel was regularly tipped down the hole and set alight. This was easier than filling in the holes and digging new ones. 

Nowadays the area is a reserve with good walking trails ( a 2.1 km circuit), good descriptive signage and well preserved dug outs. There are some life size steel cutouts of soldiers, in position, and you are encouraged to stop, look around and consider the site from the perspective of those defending it.  

Damaged old oil storage tank

In the afternoon, on my way to pick Vic up from work I found the remaining oil storage tanks which were one of the primary targets on many of the Japanese air raids.

On Saturday, after a sleep in, Vic and I went to the Coolalinga Markets again to buy a mosquito coil holder. The one we got differs from the usual ones in that it’ll hold the pieces of coil, which I always end up with because they’re damn near impossible to unpack without breaking! We were told these ones are hand made locally but our fellow Free Spirits, George and Shirley from Townsville, have one they bought there!! (So much for self promotion!)

Making sure it is straight!!

While here, we bumped into Dave and Sandra ( fellow Free Spirits from Port Augusta) who were ordering a sign for their van. 


We had a look around together before having a coffee at the café nearby and easily killing a couple of hours. 




Dave and Sandra, like Vic and I, have sold up everything at home, put the important stuff in storage and are now on the same search as we are. None of us are sure what we’re looking for but I’ll let you know when we find it! Vic and I hope to catch up with Dave and Sandi somewhere round Australia, a great couple and great company.

Don't count the days...make the days count!!
Love it!!

We’d heard the night before that Berry Springs (refer week 10) was open at last so Vic and I headed down there hoping to get a swim this time. We did and it was worth the wait. This is a lovely spot with the stream being fed by the springs further up and feeding via the cascades into 3 swimming holes. The water is a perfect swimming temperature with easy access provided by concrete platforms. Archer Fish are clearly visible as you spend time floating and relaxing in the crystal clear water. Vic and I really enjoyed the swim before we had a late picnic lunch (with the mozzies!) and then heading home in time for happy hour at George and Shirley’s caravan.

Berry Springs

Sunday morning I gave the car a clean and in between the wash and the buff, Dave and Sandi came over and joined us for morning tea in the shade of the coconut palms. Shortly after lunch, the local Fire Department set the first controlled burn for the season, along the boundary of the caravan park. Consequently, we were all engulfed in smoke for most of the afternoon and everything was covered in a layer of ash. I hurried over to Supercheap and bought a car cover to protect my clean Jeep from it.

Control burning

Controlled burning is an important part of the NT fire management. Raging catastrophic fires that seem an all too regular occurrence in southern states, are not the norm up this way. Fires in the Top End are generally at ground level, of low intensity and self extinguishing at night by low temperatures and dew, posing little threat to humans and animals. Fire management principles are based on traditional Aboriginal burning techniques which control fires in the early dry season. 

Aboriginal people burned the country for many reasons including hunting, communication, to encourage new growth, ease of travel and for ceremonies. This regrowth provided a range of food sources and habitats for themselves and the animals they hunted.

Smoky sunset

If you come to Darwin at this time of year, be prepared for the smoke haze that is all part of local life here.

Vic and I went for a swim to cool off before enjoying another great happy hour at Gary and Michelle’s place. 

I left the Jeep back at the dealer again on Monday so they could isolate an issue with the front diff sensor which is sending false warnings. I was assured it would be done by 11.30 or I would receive a phone call letting me know otherwise. They dropped me back in the city and after a coffee I followed the Darwin Bicentenial Way which is a pathway that meanders through parkland along the Esplanade.

Along the Darwin Bicentenial Way

There are many various tributes along here to people who have contributed to the history of The Northern Territory including explorers, developers, Indigenous communities and individuals, business people, parliamentarians, teachers, doctors and nurses station owners and farmers, pearlers and many others. There are also commemorative plaques to the troops and service men and women who were stationed here during the war.

By midday I’d received no phone call so made my way back to Kerry’s, the Jeep dealer. In previous blogs I’ve made mention of Darwin time which is something you need to contend with if you visit. Basically, Darwin time is, ‘when I’m damn good and ready and that’s if I get around to it at all!’ When I got back, they hadn’t looked at my car and after some coaxing, I was able to leave at 3pm. A faulty sensor was blamed,( something I’d suggested when I left the car with them… and my mechanical / technical ability would fit in a thimble!!) and the part will need to be ordered. Oh, my stars, this will be interesting! We’ll have to wait and see how it all pans out.

On Tuesday we heard on the news that a 4.2 metre croc had been trapped a kilometre downstream from Berry Springs where Vic and I had enjoyed our swim on Saturday.

During happy hour, some caravanners down from us returned from a days crabbing with some magnificent mud crabs they’d trapped. Apparently, they had caught 10 the day prior but only 5 today because they’d lost 2 traps to crocs.

Wednesday was an awesome day. A group of us went to the bistro for dinner and watched the Mighty Queensland Maroons down  the NSW Blues 18 – 10 in the first round of the State of Origin.

As the week came to a close…. It was great to be a Queenslander!

Until next week… Happy travels.